St. Barthelemy

13 May 2008

Our stern is getting awfully close to the neighboring boat and Kuno still does not have the bow tied to the buoy. It is time to start relying on raw power instead of skill and I reluctantly push the lever far forward and reverse again to gain some control of the boat in the narrow channel strewn with other boats and buoys. In an opportune moment, just as Kuno cleats the bow, I run to the back and finish tying us to the stern buoy. Sweat is running down my back as I exhale in relief. We are secured now, back in Port of Gustavia on the island of St. Barts and this is a repeat rendition from our November visit of tying up between two moorings in the harbour that must pride itself on getting as many boats in as possible. It of course assumes completely competent crew, which I am not. Last November, while attempting to tie up, we dropped our hastily extended 40 foot line in the water with the engine running, after we realized that it wasn’t long enough. It wasn’t pretty. So when it was time to chose between handling the lines or the boat this time, I went for the boat. But this time, luckily, we are assigned by the harbour master a spot with moorings closer together, more appropriate for our boat size. And so we are settled in now without a scratch to us or anyone else and the wonderful world of fancy St. Barts awaits us.

St. Barts has an interesting history. It was fought over by the British, French and Spanish, despite the fact that it doesn’t have enough water and was not suitable for agriculture. It, however, has a strategic position at the entrance to the Caribbean. It is said that many pirates used to come here to spend their loot. Well, even today one could spend a fortune here, prices of anything on this island almost require one. In the mid 18th century the French exchanged St. Barts for a port in Europe with the Swedes and for about 100 years, the island ended up being a Swedish free port before being resold back to France. Today, it is part of France and it is a spectacular hangout for the rich and famous. I haven’t been to France, but Kuno says St. Barts is “frencher” than France. I think he secretly really likes the French women here – all skinny, tall and very chic. If I was to pick an island in the Caribbean to live on, it would be St. Barts (except that I would have to finally learn French). Not only does St. Barts have beautiful landscape with both peaceful and wild beaches, underwater natural reserves, hilly green countryside with super narrow roads, that reason would tell us are too steep to drive, and driveways that rival West Vancouver (minus the snow problem), it also seems to have a well developed community with arts and active social life. We are struck by how many young families are living in St. Barts – there are strollers and small kids everywhere, prompting Tatiana to comment that there must be a convention on “How to become great parents” going on (with a cheeky hint in her voice that we must have missed that course ourselves). Gustavia must be the most picturesque harbour in the Caribbean. The town perfectly encloses the harbour on three sides with boardwalks lined by restaurants, bars and stores. Boats are tied stern or bow to all along the edges, as well as in the middle of the harbour. It has a very European feel. The protected feeling of the harbour is deceiving though and Gustavia has a constant swell going through it and the boats are moving continuously back and forth stretching the lines to the max. I must be getting used to it, as the motion, in small doses is comforting (unlike the disco that starts right across from our boat around midnight and keeps us awake into the early hours one night). The stores are full of beautiful stuff, be it food or clothes, very different from what we would find in North American stores. And food in the restaurants does full justice to the French reputation. I am surprised we are not yet spilling out of our clothes, but Kuno insists that the climbing around the boat keeps us in shape. Well, that is his story. I am just happy there is no scale on the boat!

We end up staying for five days, just loafing around. In the mornings we go for breakfast to the local bakery, enjoying an espresso with freshly baked baguette and croissants, watching the comings and goings of the locals. And in the afternoon we sit at our favourite bar La Route des Boucaniers at the edge of the harbour, eating ice cream and playing cards. It is wonderful to have the luxury of “doing nothing”. A cross Atlantic sailing race Transat ag2r from France is scheduled to arrive in Gustavia, but as the wind does not cooperate, the arrival is being delayed every day. Despite the delay, the festivities go on, with all sorts of exhibits and live music. Technology is amazing and we watch the strategy and progress of the boats on a giant screen (as well as internet) as it unfolds.

One day we rent a car, well, more like a remnant of a car – I don’t think I have ever had a ride in such a beater, and drive around the island to the few places that we have not visited in November. It is a relief that the brakes seem to work, unlike the roof that almost flies off when we try to open it and the lock to the trunk that leaves the car attached to the key as Kuno tries to pull the key out after locking our possessions inside. We discover a beautiful wild beach, Anse de Grand Fond, and spend the afternoon playing in the shade of the overhanging cliffs, building sandcastles (this time the competition is who can build the fanciest Caribbean villa) and watching two young guys getting beat up in the surf as they ride and jump the waves.

Mothers Day made it to St. Barts! Ladies, this may sound as sacrilege, but getting a 12V vacuum cleaner for Mother’s day is in fact a wonderful gift. That is, if you are living on a boat with no access to shore power. Which I am! And so, after a wonderful breakfast spread and a very yummy rum cake from Tatiana, I happily vacuum the whole boat (as Kuno painfully watches the battery being run down), limited only by the length of the cord. Alas, a new job is on the horizon for Kuno – we need an additional 12V outlet in the aft cabin so that I can vacuum there too. As a treat for Mother’s Day, I walk around town checking out the boutiques, feeling completely inadequate both financially and physically. That sounds like an oxymoron, but I have fun anyway. To improve my looks, I buy myself a hat – Kuno says I now look very French!

We sadly say goodbye to Gustavia and leave for a brief stop in St. Martin before we will set out for an overnight sail to the Virgin Islands. Just as we are leaving the harbour, two giant turtles swim by, poking their heads out of the water as if to wish us fair winds.