Sunday, May 7, 2017

That was a bit more of a first sail than I bargained for

It sure is nice to be Canadian these days.  We hoisted our Canadian flag shortly after moving onto the boat in La Grande Motte in France and it immediately started attracting attention.  The combination of our unusual boat and the flag became a magnet to the point that Kuno considered taking the flag down again as he spent all the time chatting and not getting on with his boat chores.

With the French election underway and the string of frequent security incidents in Europe, France seems to be a bit on edge.  In short few days, we were delayed at the airport coming in when part of the airport was closed off for security reasons (unclaimed luggage), then our train was stopped for an hour because there was a security incident and they had to evacuate the train station.  And to top it off, our own luggage almost created an event.  We left our old empty suitcase on the quay by our boat, thinking that overnight somebody might pick it up (must be a Canadian thing).  At about 11pm, I hear a knock on the boat, a French man saying that there is an unattended luggage and he is going to call the police.  How embarrassing.  So I took the luggage in and next day went to throw it out into the garbage bin.  But to make sure I don't create another incident, I made a show of opening it up, shaking it out and placing it open into the bin.. clearly no danger inside.  Phew, who would have thought.

We spent a week in La Grande Motte settling into the boat, setting things up, equipping and provisioning.  The 600lb crate we shipped from Vancouver with all our "stuff" arrived unharmed, even though a bit delayed.  But apparently that wasn't enough stuff and we still made endless trips to the chandlery and hardware store to buy even more stuff.  When I entered the hardware store for the second time, the girl there was ready, offering me bigger shopping baskets and storing my other bags by the cashier just so that I could make even more purchases than the day before.  But the boat is now fully functional with just a few things left to do and on Thursday morning we finally made it out of La Grande Motte.  We now have 3 weeks of sailing ahead of us with absolutely no place to be and no schedule or plan to follow.  We are truly following the wind.  And so, instead of sailing to Mallorca, we decided to hop along the Spanish coast to Barcelona before we cross over to the Balearics.

Our first sail was much more than I bargained for.  We started on a cold early morning in very calm wind, with about 80nm (or about 10 hours) to sail to a little town of Port Vendres on the French side of the border with Spain.  As to welcome us to the world of sailing, dolphins joined us, crisscrossing the bow wake for fun.  The wind increased steadily but unfortunately not quite in the forecasted direction.  We ended up with 25-30knt winds sailing close hauled or on beam all the way.  
We averaged 8-9 knot speed (in comparison, our old boat would have been about 6), registering up to 12 knots when surfing the waves.  It was a pretty wild ride for the first time on a new boat, with the bow getting buried and waves occasionally crashing over the side into the cockpit.  Not to mention that one of the shackles on the main sheet pulleys was busted and somehow nobody told us, so Kuno had to provisionally fix it while underway.  Once again I totally underestimated the weather in the Mediterranean.  And this became quite apparent when I saw the snowcapped Pyrenees in the background once we got close to the coast.  Clearly the northerly wind was going to be cold!  I put on all the warm clothes I possibly could and even then I was cold the whole way, sitting under a blanket tucked into the downwind corner under the dodger.  But, as I got used to the motion of the boat, I was once again reminded that boats are meant to do this and our new boat felt really solid and safe.  So in the end, even though I would have preferred an easier sail to start with, it was a good confidence building trip.

Now we are hopping along the coast south and its starting to feel like a vacation instead of a work party.  We even managed to get in a nice hike along the coast and today we are hoping to go biking along the river Ter. There is a bike path that leads about 200km and 2200m up all the way toward the source of the river in the Pyrenees.  That would be a great trip in the right direction!  But we will just manage a piece in the flatlands.